The wheel bearings in your car take a lot of abuse and, not surprisingly, why we get a lot of questions about wheel bearing noise and signs of bad bearings. But first thing’s first, what is a wheel bearing? A wheel bearing is a set of small steel balls which are held together in a metal ring called a race and help a wheel spin by reducing friction. Wheel bearings ride on a metal axle shaft and fits tightly inside the hub, a hollow piece of metal at the center of the wheel. The hub holds the lug bolts that you use to bolt the tire onto the wheel. Not only does a wheel bearing have to support the entire weight of your vehicle while it is traveling over rough roads, potholes and maybe the occasional curb, they also have to take the lateral forces of corners you take and have to do all that while allowing your wheel to spin at thousands of revolutions per minute. Unlike your engine bearings, your wheel bearings don’t have a constant supply of oil lubricating and cooling them, they have to be self-sufficient and also be sealed tight enough to keep road dust and water out of them. Bearings are used in all sorts of things we use every day so you might be interested to learn about more uses for bearings!
What Happens When a Wheel Bearing Goes Out?
Since a wheel bearing has to accomplish all this for hundreds of thousands of miles, it’s not surprising that they wear out occasionally. Wheel bearing wear and tear can happen for a variety of reasons we’ll look at in a minute. A bad wheel bearing sound is usually a loud hum coming from that wheel sort of like loud road noise from bad tires. A similar noise can come from worn bearings in your transmission or even a low transmission fluid level. It’s important to regularly check your transmission fluid level find out if you have a leak in your transmission so you can get the problem fixed before any damage occurs.
On classic cars, wheel bearings were a set of tapered roller bearings on a non-drive wheel or a straight bearing supporting an axle of the drive wheel. Today, most vehicles use a unit bearing pressed or bolted onto the hub or knuckle. These unit bearings are sealed units that cannot be serviced. The benefit is that it’s very difficult for contamination to get into the bearing to cause accelerated wear. The downside is that the bearings cannot be serviced, cleaned or re-greased to once they are worn out the whole bearing must be discarded and a new bearing assembly installed.
How do You Know if You Have a Bad Wheel Bearing?
No matter what type of bearing you have, bad wheel bearing symptoms are the same. A wheel bearing will usually fail due to pitting or small damage on the surface of the rollers or the bearing race. Both the surface of the rollers and the race are precision machined to tight tolerances and highly polished to allow the rollers to pass easily over the race with the addition of bearing grease for lubrication and cooling. Over time the bearing will wear slightly, allowing microscopic pieces of metal into the grease. These microscopic pieces of metal, as well as any contamination that gets into the bearing, will wear away at the highly polished surfaces causing pitting and deformation. Since so much weight is riding on your wheel bearings, and so much load is put on them in corners, even the smallest amount of surface damage to your bearing can cause a lot of noise like a growling or humming or in some cases a grinding noise.
What Does Bad Wheel Bearing Noise Sound Like?
Determining if you’ve got a failed wheel bearing in your car can often be a difficult task. Since a failed bearing sounds a lot like excessive road noise, it can be hard to do a wheel bearing noise diagnosis to tell if you’ve simply got worn tires or a bad wheel bearing. Similarly, there are a lot of other noises your suspension can make that make it hard to tell what’s really going on down by your wheels. Often times it can be easier to rule out other problems with your car that can cause noise to help prove you really do have a bad wheel bearing. We recommend starting by rotating your tires to see if the noise changes. If it does, you probably have unevenly worn tires. If it doesn’t, you may have a bad wheel bearing. Here are a few other sounds and symptoms of bad wheel hub bearings:
- Snapping or clicking noises. This is sometimes also caused by a damaged CV joint, but can also be due to worn wheel bearings if you hear a clicking noise when turning.
- Humming or growling noises. This can sometimes be an issue with uneven wear on tires or issues with the drivetrain, but when you hear these noises when driving in a straight line it’s possible that it’s bearing related, especially if the sound gets worse when you turn the steering wheel slightly to the left or right.
- Uneven or abnormal tire wear. This one is rare, but when bearings are extremely worn or loose they can cause abnormal tire wear.
Do Bad Wheel Bearings Cause Vibrations?
Many people wonder if vibrations are a common bad wheel bearing symptom. And the answer is that if the race or rollers in your bearing have become pitted due to wear or from water getting inside the bearing, then yes it will cause vibrations when you drive. Interestingly, the vibrations are different depending on your vehicle speed. At very low speeds (less than 5 miles per hour) you may be able to actually feel these vibrations as your creep along. At higher speeds, these vibrations will just sound like humming and feel like you’re driving on a washboard surface. To best way to feel the vibrations is by lifting your wheels off the ground one by one and spinning them to see if one is dragging or rumbling as it spins. You may have to do this with the wheels on or off the car to be able to feel the difference. If your wheel bearing is extremely worn you may also be able to feel the wheel wobble in your hands as you spin it.
What Can Cause a Wheel bearing to Go Bad?
The truth is the thing that most often makes a wheel bearing go bad is simply driving. The constant revolutions coupled with the weight of your car will eventually wear out even the best bearings. If moisture gets into the bearing grease it can accelerate wear by decreasing the oil’s ability to lubricate and by allowing rust to form. Driving in the rain isn’t a big deal but driving through standing water may allow moisture into the bearing. Similarly adding load to the bearing can decrease its life and cause it to go bad early. Following the load rating of your vehicle can allow the bearings to live a long and easy life.
How Much Does It Cost to Replace A Wheel Bearing?
Having a wheel bearing replaced is a relatively straightforward procedure so you should be able to get a very accurate quote over the phone by providing your year make and model to a local shop. It can be a good idea to call for a few estimates before choosing a shop to repair your wheel bearing as the prices can vary significantly due to press fees and other incidental labor fees associated with the job. If the steering knuckle needs to be removed to replace the wheel bearing on your car, you may also need to replace some suspension components like a lower ball joint or tie rod end as these can be damaged during removal if they are old or worn. If you have wheel bearing noise it’s important to get it taken care of as soon as possible since you never know how much longer the bearing will support your car!
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229 responses to "Wheel Bearing Noise. Do I Have a Bad Wheel Bearing?"
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Hey BlueDevil Pro,
I found this article in my search for possible answers regarding some symptoms of my 1998 Saturn SL2. At freeway speeds, it feels like I have an off-balance tire accompanied by a harmonic singing. The reason I describe it as similar to an off balance tire is that it doesn’t happen under about 55, then goes away at about 60, then comes back at 75 or so. If I jerk the steering wheel slightly to the right (short but sharp, keep in mind I was doing this at US highway speeds ~75-80mph), the sound goes away and the ride becomes smooth again. Jerk it back left and the symptoms all show up again. Unfortunately I noticed this a little over halfway through a 1,000 mile drive, so I chose to push on and hope for the best. When I arrived at my destination I checked my CV shafts for torn boots and they seemed fine.
My next step will be to jack up the front end and test the wheels like you described here, but I wanted to ask if there might be anything else I should check while I do that, or if you have any other suggestions about what may cause these symptoms.
Thank you very much!
Alex
Alex,
Sorry to hear about your Saturn giving you problems, but I’m glad you made it to your destination safely. Our best guess is that you have a bad wheel bearing, but it is also possible your actual tires are causing the problems. A poorly worn tread pattern could cause the same sounds you are describing. While you have a wheel jacked up, you might also check for loose lug nuts and proper tire pressure.
Besides a bad wheel bearing, you may still have a bad CV joint, even with good boots, or it may be worn suspension components. For another great article on the noises all these components make when they fail, try reading here: https://gobdp.com/blog/steering-wheel-noise/.
If you have any more questions, please leave us a comment on that article as well.
Hi I have an06 dodge ram 1500 4×4. I’ve replaced the left fry CV axle twice , and I’m still getting a noise. Is it safe to drive until I get it fixed?
Scott-
Thank you for asking about your Dodge Ram 1500. Are you able to identify the kind of noise you are hearing? Is it like a clicking or humming sound, or is it more of a grinding sound? If you are feeling any kind of shaking or vibration, we recommend not driving the vehicle and having it checked for possible worn/bad wheel bearings. Either way, until you know the cause of this noise, it probably wouldn’t be a good idea to drive the vehicle.
Thank you!
-BDP
Hello I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra I be hearing a noise on the passenger side on the left side of my tire sounds like a squeaking sounds when I drive it
Lena-
The sound you are hearing could be the result of abnormal tire wear. Unfortunately, a number of different things can cause this issue, such as suspension issues, bad wheel bearings, bad wheel hubs, etc. We’d recommend bringing the vehicle in for inspection to have the issue properly diagnosed.
Thank you!
-BDP
I recently did an entire rear brake job on my 2001 Ford Ranger.Wheel cylinders,shoes, springs, and drums. I spin the drum and it spins like it should. I put the wheel back on and spin it and it feels like it sticks a little. Could it be the wheel bearing going bad?
I have a 87 Honda Accord I was told my CV joints were going out Would it be cheaper just to get a axle that would come with the CV joints and everything then buying separate parts can I get like a axle of my year replace it cheaper?
Teri,
Thanks for your question about your 1987 Honda Accord. Yes, it is almost always cheaper to just get a remanufactured axle that comes with the joints installed then it is to try to repair your old axle. Most local auto parts stores should carry a few different options for your car.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
I have a 02 Jeep grand Cher Lar
My sound on the front drivers side is like a gear stripping clunk it’s intermittently when driving. Will it be the wheel hub assembly that needs to be replaced?
Larry-
Thank you for asking about your Jeep Grand Cherokee. Does the noise seem to get louder when turning to any particular side? If so, it more than likely would be a bad wheel bearing. Either way, it would be worth taking the vehicle to shop for inspection before the problem becomes worse leaves you in a dangerous situation while driving.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have a 2004 gmc sonoma. I have a humming noise when I pick up speed and when I go really slow such as when slowing down it continues to hum and i can even hear clicking. I just replaced the wheel bearing on the front right side where the noise is coming from but i am still getting noise. What could be going on with my vehicle?
Hayden-
Thank you for asking about your GMC Sonoma. Based on your description, and the fact that you’ve already replaced the wheel bearing from that side, it sounds as though you may have a worn CV axle or worn loosened CV joints. Although a worn CV axle will start to make a similar humming noise to that of a worn wheel bearing, the clicking noise you are getting would be associated with the CV joints, especially when making a turn.
Thank you!
-BDP
Hello ,I have Toyota Venza and had some nosing at the back . I have sent it to mechanic shop to change all the back hub but still hearing the noise. want to ask what can cause the noise
Bright-
Thank you for asking about your Toyota Venza. What kind of noise were you hearing? Did the noise seem to get louder when you accelerate the vehicle or when taking a turn? If so, you may have a wheel bearing going bad, especially if the noise seems to intensify when turning the vehicle to a particular side. Your best option may be to bring the vehicle back to the mechanic to see if they can test drive the vehicle to help identify the noise.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have a 2018 Tuscon, I changed tires and got the car aligned,but yet still having that annoying humming sound while driving. The tech checked the wheel bearing and told me that ‘s fine…..what else should I be looking for now ??
Thank you for you time .
Adam-
Thank you for asking about your Hyundai Tucson. If the noise is only present when driving the vehicle, it is likely related to the drive train. Try having the transmission, drive axles and carrier bearings checked as well for faults.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
This is very helpful this problem was so hard to diagnose until I read this.
Alex, what was the problem with your car? I’m wondering because I also have a Saturn SL, only mine is a ’99. And what you described sounds just like what is going on with my car, and everyone is arguing over it being a wheel bearing or a CV joint. Of course I’m still going to take it to a mechanic, I just want to know what your issue was.
My front right or left tire is making this whorping sound While I’m drving. And those tires are brand new.
Monica-
Does the sound seem to get any louder when making a turn? Have you noticed any shaking or vibration when driving? It’s possible the tires are overinflated and are making that sounds because they are overfilled. Check the tires psi to make sure they are within vehicle specifications.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have a 2013 Kia Forte we just replaced the cv axle about 2 weeks ago my car is now making a grinding noise while I am driveing and while I turn to the right no matter my speed it grinds we was thinking it was the wheel barring but some say has to do with the brakes I need help
Hanah,
Thanks for your question about your 2013 Kia Forte. Usually grinding noises are associated with brake issues rather than a bad wheel bearing so it sounds like you’re on the right track. Our first suggestion would be to take the car back to the mechanic who did the work and have them check everything over to make sure the job was completed correctly and all fasteners are torqued to specification. The other thing you might check is to make sure the dust shield behind the brake rotor isn’t bent to where it is touching the rotor. The dust shield is thin metal and could easily have gotten damaged or bent during the axle replacement.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Article right on point. I have a 2012 Nissan Titan and just recently begin hearing this humming noise once I get up to around 60-70 mph and over. As I turn the wheel slightly right at these speeds the hum goes away. I was told wheel bearings and specifically the front right. This is because as you turn right you take the load off the front right wheel to the left side. I got a front right wheel bearing assembly from the local parts store and had it put on yesterday. They showed me the old one and it was full of rust. Now I get in my truck last night to test the ride. Same results! Maybe not as loud but yes same noisy humming and results of turning right. Humming does not go away turning to the left in a curve etc. Is it possible the left wheel bearing is bad too and needs replacing? Note I live in the Houston Ireland remember driving my vehicle through some high water up to the door during recent flooding.
DA-
Thank you for asking about your Nissan Titan. Based on your description, it is very possible that the left wheel bearing has gone bad as well. The humming sound you are experiencing would most likely indicate a bad wheel bearing, and being that the right one was just replaced, the left wheel bearing must be the culprit.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
Hi! I have a 2017 ford focus. I was driving on a freeway when I accidentally hit a rock in the left front wheel of my car. Since then it’s making a humming noise if I’m doing 80km/h and gets louder at 100km/h. Is it possible the wheel bearing is the problem?
Beejay-
Thank you for asking about your Ford Focus. Based on your description, it is very possible that you are dealing with a worn wheel bearing. Typically, the noise associated with a wheel bearing that’s gone bad is a grinding noise, and you would mostly hear this noise when you were trying to turn the vehicle in either direction. A humming noise could indicate a wheel bearing starting to wear down, which after the impact the wheel incurred, would most likely be the problem.
Thank you!
-BDP
Hi…I have 1995 Lincoln Mark VIII rear wheel drive. My rear passenger tire will move up and down while jacked up…bit not side to side. I’ve been told it was bad bearings…then another garage said it was a worn out upper control arm. No humming noise or grinding noise is happening… could you give your opinion? Thanks in advance
Perry-
Thank you for asking about your Lincoln Mark VIII. Without hearing any of the tell-tale noises associated with bad wheel bearings, such as grinding or humming, it would be difficult to say that the bearings are bad without inspection. Based on your description, it more sounds like an issue with the upper control arm not allowing lateral movement.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
My drivers side rear tire is making loud pops and rubbing noises at any speed, driving straight or curving and in forward or reverse . I drive a 2005 honda pilot ex. Could this be a bad bearing?
Jeannie-
Are you noticing the noise more when turning to a particular side? Based on your description, it may just be that the tire has uneven wear or are worn and in need of replacement. This could potentially happen if the tires haven’t been rotated accordingly to ensure even threads on the tire. Replacing the tire should fix the issue.
Thank you!
-BDP
I was at work one night last week when I went to move my car I got about 10 feet from my parking spot and it sounded like maybe I hit a pot hole and something dropped my car didn’t wat to move it felt like my brakes locked up when I was pushing the gas the next day it didn’t do it but it did twice last night my car over heats easily because my fan don’t kick on when it should only if my car has heat or a.c going but I’m sure that is a different problem because my car is 12 years old my miter says it could be something to do with my traction and my uncle says it could be the wheel bearing just wondering what the problem sounds like to you
Amber-
Thanks for your question about your vehicle. It sounds like your problem is coming from your transmission or axles. Most of the time if brakes or wheel bearings lock up, they don’t let go without replacing or rebuilding them. It sounds more like one of your CV joints is completely worn out and locking up or the differential in your transmission is broken and similarly causing the problem. Since this could be a safety issue if it happens at speed, we recommend you having your vehicle looked at by a mechanic as soon as possible.
Thank you!
-BDP
Good article, and very accurate. I am sitting at a repair spot right now getting my front drivers side wheel bearing replaced. There was a hum that started at 15mph and got pretty loud at speed. And it got louder as I turned right. And thankfully, my ASC Warranty is covering the repair.
I have a 1998 Ford Ranger that is 4 wheel drive when I’m going down the road, even in a straight line, I hear a grinding sound coming from the front end. Some people have told me that it could be a wheel bearing. It starts at different speeds but always stops when it gets below 5 MPH. The wheel bearing seems good with no movement. Any suggestions on what it might be?
Mike,
Bad wheel bearings are usually associated with humming noises, not grinding sounds. Grinding noises usually have more to do with brake problems rather than wheel bearings. Try reading our article about brake noise to see if that is the problem you are having. You can find that article here: https://gobdp.com/blog/squeaking-brakes/.
-BlueDevil Pro
Can a really beat up road cause humming or grinding noises?
Mike,
A bad road could indeed cause a humming noise, but grinding seems a little unlikely. For example, concrete roads with grooves cut in them for water control can sometimes sing or hum as you drive on them. Also if you have a road covered by stone and oil it can cause a significant amount of road noise. You can prove the noise is coming from the road by checking for a difference in noise when you change roads, or by driving a different car on the same road and seeing if you get the same noise.
I have a 97 chevy k1500 4×4. Whn I am going down the road I am hearing a rubbing and grinding noise. I changed my brakes and rotors. I also put a lower grade tires on. My old tires where whore down badly. The passenger side is show a lot of grease on it and the driver side doesnt have any.
Mike,
Thanks for your question about your 1997 Chevy truck. Assuming your brakes are in good shape and based on the grease you are seeing on the passenger side, our guess would be that you’ve got a bad CV axle on your passenger side and it is causing the noise you are hearing. When the accordion boot tears on a CV axle it will allow all the black grease to sling out as your drive making a mess. Also, once that joint has no grease, it will quickly wear down and start making noise. We would recommend checking for a torn CV boot near the grease on the passenger side and replace that axle if you find a torn boot.
It is remotely possible that you have a bad wheel bearing as well, but if it’s making a grinding noise then it must be very worn and you would feel play in one of your tires when you had it off the ground.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
I have a Hyundai Sonata 2000, when I hit 45 up till 70 mph I have a schreaching noise from my right front tire, when I push on brakes it stops but as soon as I let off break the noise is back, do you think this is wheel bearing?
Virginia-
Thank you for asking about your Hyundai Sonata. Based on your description, it is possible that the wheel bearing is going bad, however, it more sounds like an issue with the brake pads being worn, as the noise goes away when the brakes are applied. We recommend bringing the vehicle to a certified ASE mechanic and having the brake pads replaced.
Thank you!
-BDP
Hi, I’m wondering if it’s just my tires there’s not much tread left they are 35″ mid tires, the sound is loud like a rotational hum then goes away at 50 km a hour no noise change left to right and jacked front end up no play when pushing top and bottom and very little when pushing on sides (steering wheel movement) wondering if it’s wheel bearing or just bad tires thanks
Cal-
With 35” mud tires it is very possible the noise you are hearing is simply tire noise. This is even more likely the case if the tires have not been properly rotated over there life time. If tires, especially mud tires, are not regularly rotated, the tread can become scalloped and uneven causing strange noises while driving. The best way to check to see if this is the problem is to rotate your tires and see if the noise changes. It may not completely go away but badly worn tires usually wear differently so you should hear a change in the sound when rotating the tires front to back. If it sounds the same after a tire rotation you may have just the start of a bad wheel bearing.
Thank You!
-BDP
I recently had the 2 front struts and tires on my 04 suzuki forenza replaced, and now 3 days later, I get a loud hum in the front end that starts at 40mph, (almost sounds like an exhaust leak) but stops when I slow down under 40mph, would that be a wheel bearing or just the tires?
Mike-
Thanks for your question about your Suzuki Forenza. Based on your description, the noise you are hearing could be a wheel bearing going bad. If it is a bad wheel bearing, the noise should get louder as you put more miles on your car and you should start to notice it even at lower speeds. If it is just noisy tires, the sound should stay constant as you put more miles on them.
The other possibility is that you have a front CV joint going bad. Try reading our article about CV joint issues to see if that sounds like it is your problem. https://gobdp.com/blog/steering-wheel-noise/.
-BDP
I just bought an 04 Chrysler Pacifica friday drove it out of town for the weekend no problems on the way home driving at 80 mph my car jerked left and when i corrected it by pulling it back right and got it straight it jerked to the right. Now it is tuesday and my car is still doing it between 60-80 mph any idea as to what this problem could be?
Tiffany,
Thanks for your question about your Pacifica. It sounds like you had a component in your steering system fail pretty suddenly. Usually, this doesn’t happen without hitting a pothole or curb. Unless the problem is accompanied by clunking or other vibrations, the problem most likely lies with a broken tie rod or tie rod end. Even if you did identify the broken component, once it is replaced you would need to get a front end alignment which isn’t something you can do at home. It would be best to have your Pacifica looked at by an alignment shop to make sure they can replace the part and perform an alignment at the same time. We would recommend you having this done as soon as possible as poor alignment can really wear down your tires quickly.
Im taking the car back to see if the dealership i bought it from will look at it and do something but thank you for your reply
I have a 2005 ford explorer I was taking a three hour trip home on all highways when I started to hear a grinding and humming to me it sounded like the breaks were worn down until the truck started to sway back and forth as if the rear driver tire was wobbling could this be my wheel bearing and will this be dangerous to drive till I can get it to a shop? Please help!!!
Nicole,
Thanks for your question about your Explorer. The noise you are describing does sound like a bad wheel bearing. The fact that you noticed the rear tire wobbling makes me think that you have a major issue in the rear of your truck! We don’t recommend you driving it anymore until you get the problem fixed. If you do drive more a bad wheel bearing could turn into a broken axle or other problems with your rear end costing you more money in repairs.
I have a 2005 tahoe I noticed with in just a month or so that it was swaying pretty bad. Expecially when I would go over a bridge and come off of the hump right after it. Sometimes with dips in the roads. I talked to a friend who is a mechanic and he said the back rear tire was leaning slightly and that it could be my problem. As of now I still havnt heard a noise like I’ve hear with other wheel bearings it does vibrate about 55 to 60. And I have shook the tire and it wabbles. My next thing is feeling the heat on it after r I drive it a short ways. ( not getting to far from home)
Beth-
It does sound like you have a wheel bearing issue on your 05 Tahoe. The fact that you can physically wobble the wheel makes us think it’s getting pretty bad and may be worth looking at very soon to make sure you don’t cause any more damage. Since your truck has a solid rear axle, if your tire is wobbling badly you may also have other problems inside your differential so we would recommend having a mechanic do the work that understands differentials as well.
Thanks!
-BDP
Hello. I’m not sure if I’m asking in the right place. I have a 03 Mazda b3000 truck with a limited slip differential. I bought the truck in February of this year. Out drove extremely south and very well during the rest drive and during the first week I had it. I ended up having a blow out on a Sunday, so I had no choice but to use Wal-Mart to fix it. I bought 2 new rear tires which ended up being a fiasco. Can you believe that they didn’t even put weights on my tires the “second” time they put them on? So I had a terrible vibration while trying to drive it home but ended up turning around and going back. Not to mention the fact that they replaced the wrong tires on their first try. they balanced all 4 for free. That fixed most of the vibration that was caused by weightless tires. But I still had a pretty bad vibration that felt like was coming from the rear end to me. Not only that but it’s not constant. It starts only on the highway between 60mph and 70mph. Also it comes and goes at those speeds. Say for instance, the truck will be driving south for a mile or 2, but then I’ll hit a bump. The vibration will start up. then I’ll it a bend in the road or hot another bump and it will vanish. Only at highway speeds though. So I took it to discount and they told me the balancing on my tires was pretty damn good. They went ahead and rebalance all 4 anyway. Still didn’t fix the vibration. I’ve had my driveshaft balanced, my front bearings, breaks, and rotors replaced. Because that’s what the Mazda dealership said was causing the issue. Still didn’t fix it. They said they seen my rear driver tore going crazy when running it up on the jack. They think I have a bad axle. But wouldn’t it vibrate constantly if it were a bent axle? They couldn’t get my drums off supposedly to check. They hammered and pulled, but still couldn’t get either rear side drum off the truck. I don’t hear any squealing or grinding noises coming from any of my wheels. I’m thinking it’s a bad rear axle bearing which I’m going to replace myself tomorrow. If I can get the drums off. But this truck drove like a champ for the 2 hour test drive I took it on down the highway when I bought it. Wal-Mart replaced 2 rear tires and ever since then I’ve been taking this issue down. Hopefully I’ve pin pointed out with it being the rear axle bearings. Any ideas of what’s causing this slightly rough/bouncing/vibration that comes and goes when I’m driving on the highway? Again no odd noises. At all…
Smooth* not south.
Ryan,
Thanks for your question about the vibrations in your truck. It sounds like you’ve had quite a mess so far, but it sounds like you’re close to solving the problem. It is possible that the vibrations tore up one of the bearings in your rear end. It could be the outer bearings or maybe even the input shaft bearing. If you’re having trouble getting the drums off, that seems possible that you have a bad bearing as it would allow the axle to shift in the tube pinching the drum on the hub. The other possibility to consider is that your rear shocks or blown out and once vibrations start after a bump the shocks aren’t properly damping the vibrations allowing them to continue.
I have a 2010 Nissan Altmia. I’ve experienced a roaring or humming noise while driving and it gets louder the faster I drive. I took it to a mechanic shop and they said they couldn’t determine where the noise was coming from but it wasn’t a wheel bearing. At that time i had no muffler on the car so the noise was really hard to pin point. I’ve since gotten the muffler fixed and i feel like the noise is louder. You can hear it at any speed but the faster i go the louder the noise is. What is the average cost to fix a wheel bearing?
Also I never noticed the noise until I had brake work done several months ago.
Jessica-
Thank you for asking about your Nissan Altima. Depending on your area, the average cost to replace a wheel bearing is around $400. Based on your description, it does sounds like the symptoms of a bad wheel bearing, although it would have been difficult to diagnose with muffler being removed.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
My daughter’s older Dodge Neon’s rear wheel is no longer turning (she hasn’t driven it for 2 or 3 days). I don’t know if it’s wheel bearing/suspension problem or a brake problem – I’m going over to heck it later today. She mentioned the car seemed to have been worker harder recently. I was hoping it was a brake problem, but after reading this now I think it may be a bearing or some other drive/suspension problem. Either way it sounds like she’ll be without a car for a few days.
Alan-
Sorry to hear about your daughter’s Neon breaking down. Whether it is a brake issue or a bearing issue, it should be relatively easy to fix on her car. Start by removing the wheel and the brake drum in the rear. Once that is off the brakes are no longer engaged and you will be able to try to turn the wheel hub where the lug nuts are. If you can turn the hub easily by hand then her problem was sticking brakes. If the hub is difficult to turn or doesn’t feel very smooth then you most likely have a bad wheel bearing and need to replace it first.
Thank You!
-BDP
I had a wheel bearing noise, had passenger front replaced. Noise went away. 8 months later it was back, assumed it was front drivers side so had that replaced. Noise still exists.
1 Garage said its passenger front again, so took to garage that replaced that as would be under warranty. They cant find any signs of a bad bearing but the noise is that of one.
They are stumped. Can anyone help?
Dene,
Most phantom wheel bearing noises we find are actually due to tire noise rather than bad wheel bearings. Try rotating your tires to see if it changes the noise. If your tires are poorly worn, it may take a few hundred miles after the rotation to smooth them out.
My 97 Jackaroo makes a noise from the right rear when turning right from stand still and only last for a few seconds. From reading forums I think it might be pitted bearings. Is this possible as it does only last for seconds. No other issues or sounds when I drive back and forth to work each day in 35 and 60 mile speed limits.
Cheers
Jay
Jay,
Thanks for your question about your 97 Jackaroo. Usually, wheel bearing noises are more noticeable at speed than when going slowly. It is possible that the sound stops since you aren’t turning as sharply at the end of the turn and the lateral weight is off of the bearing so it is a possibility. If that is the case it should continue to get worse as you drive.
Usually, low-speed wheel noise is associated with brake issues rather than bearings. Try reading our article about brake noise to see if anything sounds like your problem: https://gobdp.com/blog/squeaking-brakes/
Hello there. I have a 2010 f150 supercrew 2×4 I noticed a humming/shaking noice on the rear when traveling at 45 50 steady speed. It lasts a couple of seconds but it comes and goes often. Need ur help
Leo,
Thanks for your question about your F-150. Often times in pickup trucks if the bed is empty you can get some shaking or bouncing if your shocks are going bad but aren’t quite all the way shot yet. The rear suspension of your truck is designed to carry a heavy load so it can bounce and vibrate when it is empty.
The other possibility is that you do have a bearing going out in the rear end. It is possible it is a wheel bearing, but with it coming and going it could also be your pinion bearing or another bearing in your differential. If you don’t have play in your driveshaft, or in your wheels yet, keep listening for the sound. If a bearing is going bad it will get more consistent and louder.
I am driving my mother’s 1987 Chrysler LeBaron that had 6K miles on it when she died. She always maintained it, kept it garaged, and as a result, looks showroom new. It now has 27K miles on it. Over the past several weeks I have been diving my mechanic crazy for the past several weeks. I had my front shocks replaced with an alignment and now my car shakes when I drive. Slow, fast, it doesn’t matter. I brought it back to the shop and they rebalanced my tires. Problem still happens. Gets worse the faster I go. I feel the vibration in my seat and to a lesser degree, the steering wheel. The shaking is predominately in the front passenger side. Mechanic checked the tires for wear (only 21K miles on them but they are switched to winter every fall so even less wear than that). No problem found. We are at a loss. The mechanic doesn’t think it has anything to do with the bearing. I do hear a slight (road?) hum but always associated that with the tire going over the road surface and the hum doesn’t get loader or softer. Any idea what could possibly be going on here? I really don’t want to throw any more money into an older car.
Ana,
Thanks for your question about your LeBaron. You’ve done just about everything we would recommend for the problem you are having. A bad wheel bearing wouldn’t cause vibrations like you are describing. Depending how old the tires are, the problem might not be that they’re out of balance but that they have flat spots on them from sitting in the garage. Try rotating the tires front to back and seeing if the issue moves to the back of your car instead of the front. If that is the case, a new set of tires should solve your problems. If not, we would recommend checking for worn suspension components. Even if they don’t look worn, years of sitting could have allowed the lubrication in them to dry out and not allow them to flex like they should.
Had my Prius inspected and they failed it due to a rear break issue. they also mentioned that I have a failing bearing and were not able to figure out which one it was while inspecting and putting new tires on.
I am unsure if it is both rear or just 1. RL had the bad rotor when I took it off to replace it with no breaks on it rotating it was not overly easy and a ticking sound came from it like you had stuck a playing card in the spokes of a bike only quieter.
When I went to the RR after removing the breaks I rotated that one and it was only a bit stiffer to turn and made a growling noise. I am quite sure that one is bad but I am not quite sure what to make of the other one.
when turned neither one would continue rotating on its own with or wo breaks. The article was a bit vague on what freely spinig means. should they continue to rotate a few times or stop before half a rotation and is that with or wo break pads?
Kendrick,
Thanks for your question about your Prius. Without a wheel and tire on the hub, it probably won’t rotate very far (1/2 turn at most) after you finish spinning it. Sometimes it can be easier to tell by putting the wheel and tire on snug with a lug nut or 2 and spin the assembly using the tire. The weight of the wheel and tire should allow the hub to spin freely even after you stop pushing the wheel for a few full rotations. In any case, if you are hearing noise from the bearing while spinning the hub it’s a good indication that the bearing is bad.
I have a 2001 Buick century with 82000 miles on it and I pulled out a drive way Saturday whent about 20ft forward my driver right side wheel locked up for about 2 secs then went another 20ft did it again for a few seconds then after that I drove it cautiously home for about 10 miles stoping and going hitting speeds of up to 45mph had no problems. Didn’t drive Sunday then Monday morning I back up 10 feet then go in drive went 30 feet then the driver tire locked up and remains locked up in drive. I jacked up the one side and put the car in neutral and the tire spins both ways but when it’s on the ground it completely stuck but it will drive in reverse but only moved in reverse about 10 feet. So you have any ideas of what it could be?? Thanks for the help.
Matt-
Thanks for your question about your Buick Century. It was difficult to tell from your description if it was the front or rear tire. If it is a rear tire then it’s most likely a problem with your brakes being out of alignment. Consider having those services and possibly your drum or rotor resurfaced. Make sure when the mechanics service the brakes they lubricate the slides or shoes well.
If it was your front wheel that locked up you most likely have a problem with your CV joint on that side. For a quick read on CV joint problems, check out our article about that here: https://gobdp.com/blog/steering-wheel-noise/.
Thank You!
-BDP
I got a wheel bearing replaced last Saturday. got my car back and ever since then when I hard lock left my car is screeching. it doesn’t do it any other time just when I turn left. have had it back 2 times and its still there. have had the discs and calliper off cant find anything. can you please help. desperate
Paul-
Thanks for your question about your vehicle. The only other thing besides a brake problem that we would suggest checking is your alignment. It is possible that with the new wheel bearing your alignment is slightly off so when you turn one of your wheels is dragging and screeching. It’s always a good idea to have an alignment done after having any front end work completed.
Thanks!
-BDP
Within the last few weeks my truck has had a nasty “thumping” when driving slow. Like backing out of my drive way and pulling into driveway, basically driving under 10 mph. Noticed I needed a front end alignment. The inside wear was horrible and I just got all 4 tires brand new in Dec. Also driving on the highway I was hearing a humming sound. Also, before the humming and thumping I was hearing squeaking coming from the front. I feel the driver side… then came all of the other issues.
So Fri I had 2 new tires and an alignment, thinking this was all due to the tires. Well I picked it up after work fri and still have the thumping sound. Yesterday driving home I was doing 40 and the thumping started. Freaked me out because it was only ever when I would drive really slow. I also hear like a clicking sound when I first start to pull off. To me it kinda of sounds like something breaking, it’s the only way I can explain it. It’s not a nice sound! I’m afraid my truck is just going to break.
I didn’t go to work today because I work 40 miles from home and that’s on the highway. I no longer want to drive…
I don’t know if my wheels are wiggling, I have no one to check for me and before I take it to my garage, I want to see if it’s what I think it may be….
Please help.
Thanks for your question about your truck. The noises you are describing do sound pretty bad so it seems smart that you didn’t make the 40 mile drive. Since a lot of your issues seem to be related to your front end, that would be a good place to start. The humming you are describing sounds like it could be a bad wheel bearing and with the extra wear on your front tires, it is possible that you wore out your wheel bearings very quickly and they need to be replaced. To see if this is your problem, check out our article about bad wheeling bearings here: https://gobdp.com/blog/bad-wheel-bearing/.
The other things that might be worth checking are the condition of your shocks and your drive shaft u-joints. You can check your u-joints by holding the brake and shifting from drive to reverse and back a few times. If you hear a clunk or a thump then you probably need to replace your u-joints. If your truck is 4-wheel drive it may also be worth checking your CV joints. For more information on bad CV joints, check out our article about that here: https://gobdp.com/blog/steering-wheel-noise/.
-BDP
I have a 2005 Chevy Silverado 4×4. Whenever I brake and when I first take off it makes a pretty rough sound and vibrates the whole truck. My front tires also make this metal shaving sound like when your pads are worn but I just replaced my pads rotors and calipers in the front. When I was driving it started making a clinking sound almost a knock by my tires. I drove home slow about 15 miles and every so often the truck would jerk left and right. It would still make that knock(clicking) sound but if I sped up above 45 or 50 it would go away. I know previously before this whenever I would drive above 70 I would feel the truck vibrate and feel it in the pedal. The vibration was pretty consistent when it came to doing it at 70mph. A few time it would do it at 65-70. I was wondering if this may be a wheel bearing or cv joint or something.
Miguel,
Thanks for your question about your 2005 Silverado. Based on your description and considering you’ve recently replaced your brake components in the front end, it sounds like your problem either is coming from a bad CV joint or from the 4×4 engaging mechanism in your front hubs. If you had a bad wheel bearing making that much noise you would be able to see the tire wobbling while you were driving. Since you said it sometimes grabs and jerks the truck left or right we would recommend starting by checking your 4×4 system at the front hubs.
Hello,
I have a 98 Ford Explorer. About two weeks I started hearing a grinding noise. I took it to Sears Auto and they said the entire rear differential is shot. They don’t do this repair and so I called the dealer. The parts alone run about 1500.00. In light of the age and mileage (206,000), and multiple little things I need to fix in addition to the differential, I’m looking for a new car. However, can I drive the Explorer as is for a week or two? Or…is that too risky.
Annetta,
Thanks for your question about your Explorer. If you are already hearing grinding noises then a bearing somewhere in your rear differential is in pretty bad shape. The worst that would happen if you continue to drive is that your rear tires would lock up while you are driving which can be very dangerous. This scenario is unlikely as bearings start to make a lot of noise even when they are only slightly damaged. A good way to tell how bad your problem is is by checking for oil leaks around the ends of the axle and where the drive shaft enters the differential. When bearings get very worn they will cause leaks at those seals.
We would recommend getting a second opinion on your Explorer as the entire rear differential will almost never go bad. Most of the time it’s simply one out of a few different bearings that goes bad, or the gears or worn out. A specialty shop may be able to replace just the gears or worn bearing for much less. A second option would be to find an entire used rear axle at a junkyard and have a shop change the entire unit. Explorers are popular vehicles so you may be able to find the whole axle at a reasonable price.
HELPPP…. 1996 Lexus es300… Right rear making a rumble.. I know the parking brake is gone.. However my wheel has some play when I have the Car stationary… If I wiggle the wheel back and forth it moves probably an 1/8 of an inch either way… When I’m turning slightly left at highway speeds I can hear and feel the rumble.. Had checked out.. Was told it MIGHT be rear control arm and trailing arms in the rear.. Was advised against the work saying it wasn’t worth risking taking the bolts out that go through the frame as well as having to drop the tank to do the repair. At a loss.. Idk I feel like its a wheel bearing issue.. Please help
Stephen,
The noise you are describing does sound like a wheel bearing issue to us. The fact that you described it as a rumble, that it changes when you go around a corner, and has slightly play back and forth all sound like symptoms of a bad wheel bearing, not a bad suspension component. The wheel bearing on your right rear is sealed bearing so you won’t be able to inspect it by looking at it or removing it. After properly securing your car try raising both rear wheels off the ground without the e-brake on. Remove both wheels and try spinning each hub separately and seeing if the right hub has more resistance. If so then you’ve got a bad wheel bearing on that side.
Recently bought a used 2005 Ford Ranger. While driving it home some 5hrs I noticed a shake or wobble that would come and go at various speeds (between 80-120km/hr). At times it was in the front because I could feel it in the steering wheel and other times it felt it was coming from the rear as the steering wheel was solid. While most of the time the truck drove smoothly, It felt as though the wheels would get into sync and set up a resonance to shake the truck and then as they got out of sync (usually in a curve) it would quiet down. Speed did not see to be a factor. Any thoughts? Wheels, bearings, suspension components?
Roman,
Thanks for your question about your 2005 Ford Ranger. The problem you’re having does sound like a suspension issue. For a quick read on how to find suspension problems, check out our article about that here: https://gobdp.com/blog/squeaky-suspension/.
Our best guess is that your shock absorbers need to be replaced. Most manufacturers recommend replacing your shocks every 60,000 miles, but they can often last longer than that. You can do a crude inspection of your shocks by bouncing up and down on one corner of your truck and seeing if it continues to bounce once you stop pushing. If your truck continues to bounce or does not settle quickly it is an indication that you need to replace that shock.
Thanks again for your question!
-BlueDevil Pro
2004 GMC Envoy making a noticeable humming noise with a slight steering wheel vibration. Noise gets louder with speed and turning. Noise continues until I get below 15 mph. It is definitely coming from the front of the vehicle. Envoy has 114,000 miles and we have never replaced anything but breaks and rotors.
T,
Thanks for your question about your GMC Envoy. The noise you are describing does sound like one of your front wheel bearings is going bad and needs to be replaced. There is also a slight possibility it is a bad CV joint, but that would be accompanied by a clicking noise while turning a sharp corner.
I found this article after having replaced my drivers side CV half shaft on my 97 suzuki swift. When all was said and done, and I put the car back together, there was a wobble with the tire. The lugs are all tight and the CV nut is tight, however when i grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and try to wobble it, it moves significantly. Could this be the wheel bearings? or more likely a ball joint?
Dean,
Great work in replacing your CV shaft! Many times to remove a CV shaft you do have to remove a few suspension components as well to swing the knuckle out far enough to get the CV shaft out. If you removed a ball joint or the control arm during your CV shaft replacement then start by checking those nuts and bolts to make sure they’re tight. Next, when you’re wobbling your wheel have someone look behind it to see what is moving. If the wheel is moving, but the brake caliper is stationary then you probably have a bad wheel bearing. If the brake caliper along with the whole knuckle is moving then the issue is most likely a ball joint.
A couple of weeks ago I replaced the front brake pads and rotors on my 2008 Honda Civic. I also had to replace the driver side caliper, the other one was fine. a couple of day ago i started to hear a whining sound from the front passenger side wheel. I pulled over to see what it was and saw that i had 3 loose lugs and the other 2 were missing. I tightened everything up and drove on. Since that time the whining /rubbing sound has been getting louder and more constant with every mile that I drive. It stops when i apply the brakes. I have since pulled the brakes back off and applied a whole package of the brake grease but it has done nothing to stop the noise. i have tried driving it at speeds of up to 70 plus MPH and there is no shimmy or vibration so i’m not sure that the wheel bearing is the culprit. Any ideas ??
Albert,
Thanks for your question about your Civic. Since it sounds like you’ve ruled out the brakes being the cause of your issue, your only other options really are your wheel bearing, cv joint or possibly the tire. It is possible that the loose lug nuts and wobbly tire lead to some other damage, either your wheel bearing, CV joint or possibly bad wear of your tire causing the noise. To check for a bad cv joint, try reading our article about that here: https://gobdp.com/blog/steering-wheel-noise/.
It is possible that you have a bad wheel bearing even if you don’t feel the effects of it yet. If you do have a bad wheel bearing the noise will continue to get worse as you drive, and eventually you’ll be able to feel play in the wheel. You can check by raising your passenger side wheel off the ground, grabbing it at the 12 and 6 o’clock position and trying to wobble it. If you’re able to move it at all then your bearing is indeed going bad.
My Ford freestyle has a loud hum @ 40pmh coming from the rear. When corning to the right it gets quiter. Would this indicate the front bearing more than the rear?
Jon-
Thanks for your question about your Ford Freestyle. If the sound is coming from the rear and it gets quitter when turning right we would guess the problem is with your left rear wheel bearing. You can figure out which is the problem by securing your car and jacking both rear wheels off the ground. Pull the tires off and try spinning the hub by hand. If you have a bearing going bad one side should have a noticeable drag, or feel slightly bumpy as it spins.
Thank You!
-BDP
Excellent article. I’m thinking I have a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side rear wheel. When I’m driving I can’t hear any noise over my engine noise, but at highway speed when I turn right the car will start to shake. It seems to shake more if I let off the gas into the turn; when I punch it it usually levels out quickly. I just replaced all 4 struts (because they were bad), front control arms and have all new tires. That seemed to have fixed the issue for a couple of weeks, but now it is shaking again when I turn right at high speeds. I jacked my car up and tried wiggling the wheel and it didn’t seem to move. When I spin it I can hear a little bit of noise but not much. The other rear wheel doesn’t make any noise. Do you think this is my wheel bearing or could it be trailing arms? I’m driving a 03 hyundai accent.
Kevin-
Thanks for your question about your Hyundai Accent. Based on the changes in the vibration with acceleration and cornering, and the noise you hear when spinning that rear wheel, it seems pretty likely that you do have a bad wheel bearing on that side. It isn’t surprising that you aren’t getting any movement when trying to wobble the wheel on that side as your car has a relatively large sealed unit bearing in the rear so it would have to be extremely worn out before you get any movement. Bad wheel bearings are not unusual on your car and are relatively easily to replace.
-BDP
I have a 2008 chevy trailblazer. It’s a solid little suv, but recently I’ve been getting the metal shaving sound from what seems to be the front right wheel. The only odd thing I can find is that it happens between 30-35 mph and again right around 50 mph. I have checked both sets brakes and a few indicators for wheel bearings, and everything seems ok? Would you have any indication as to what this issue may be?
Troy-
Thanks for your question about your Trailblazer. Usually metal grinding noises are a brake problem so great job in checking that out. If it has been a year or more since you had your brake pads changed, you may simple need to re-lubricate the caliper slides and the back of the brake pads to make sure they are floating properly in the caliper.
If you are sure the noise isn’t coming from your brakes, you may simply check around your front tires for loose plastics that may be getting caught in the wind and rubbing on the tire or dragging on the ground. The last thing you might check is your CV joints. With the noise you’re describing you would definitely have a torn boot so check the axle for grease and the boots for tears. If you find a tear then you’re in the market for a new CV joint.
-BDP
My wife’s car is making a knocking sound in the front end, and it shakes so bad that it feels like it is falling apart. The vibration that it gives can be felt in the steering wheel. It is a 2001 Dodge neon. Any ideas on what it could be?
Corey-
Usually shaking from the front end use either due to warped front brake rotors or an out of balance tire. If the vibration changes when you apply the brakes, or can be felt in your brake pedal, especially from highway speeds, it is a good indication that the front rotors needs to be replaced. If braking doesn’t affect the vibration then we would suggest having your tires re-balanced.
In some extreme cases worn suspension components can cause vibrations like you are describing. If they are worn that bad you should be able to tell easily by lifting the front wheels off the ground with your car well secured and tugging and pulling on the tops and sides of the tire. If you can move the tire up and down, side to side or in and out, watch for where the movement is and replace that broken suspension component.
Thank You!
-BDP
For a while now I have heard a grinding noise when the brakes were applied on my 2008 Grand Caravan. It is typical to have to replace the pads & rotors on it every year or so. I had my vehicle inspected in January and the brakes passed then so I didn’t have them replaced at that time. In the last couple of weeks I have heard a very loud scraping noise (as if the van was being scraped across the road) as well even when the brakes were not applied…mostly at the slower speeds. And, it seemed to be worse when I turned right. The noise also sounds cyclical…if that makes sense. And only from the front right which made me start researching if it was not a brake issue I am hearing. I am terrified that there is a brake issue AND a wheel bearing issue. Yesterday when I tried to drive it one last time I got about a half mile and I felt like the can was slowing itself down without me applying the brakes and the scraping/grinding noise was HORRIBLE…so I turned right around and went back home and will have it towed to a repair place. Before I decide where to send it I am hoping to get an answer of what the problem might be other than my stupidity at waiting to fix it (no money). Thanks for any help.
Andrea-
Thanks for your question about your Grand Caravan. The noise you are describing sounds more like a brake issue than a bad wheel bearing. If your wheel bearing was so bad that it was scraping or grinding you would be able to see the wheel wobble while driving and the steering wheel would feel loose and sloppy. If you wear your brake pads into the rotor, the biggest danger is over extending your brake caliper which could cause a loss of brake fluid and braking or cause the caliper to freeze which may be why your car was slowing down without you pushing the brakes. We would recommend replacing the pads and rotor first and see if that fixes everything.
-BDP
i have gone for tyre chane and found some prob with axile bearing forward,after work finish,told me 20 numbers of bearing have been replaced and give me an invoice of above 7000AED and i wondered,nissan tida car and shope was behind sharjah city centre
i checked with my friends and told me it will really come below 500AED
??
Shajahan-
Unfortunately we don’t have any way of helping you know if the price you received for your bearing replacement is fair or not. There are so many factors that can influence the price of repairs from shop labor to the availability of parts.
-BDP
I have a squeaking like a bad u joint in my front axle accompanied with a vibration at 60 in my 2001 ram is it possible that my wheel bearing is done? Checked it and it felt loose on the driver side but my hubs dont unlock so there was drag on both and cant get a accurate diagnosis with that issue.
Brandon-
Thanks for your question about your 2001 Ram. It can be difficult to diagnose bad wheel bearings on your front axle. You can try removing the wheel and seeing if you can tell a difference in the sides that way. The best way to check is to see if you have any movement straight in and out on your front hubs. If you do it’s a good indication that your wheel bearing is going bad. Depending how many miles you have on the tires you’re driving on, the vibration may also just be an indication that it’s time to rotate your tires or have them balanced again.
-BDP
I have a 2007 Chevy Cobalt. The middle of last week it started with a roaring noise and on Friday when I got home my husband suggested that I take it over to the my mechanic’s shop with a note and have him check it. He did and replaced the right front wheel bearing. He said he couldn’t hear anything but if I did to take it and have the tires rotated. It still sounds just about the same to me. Will rotating the tires help? I just got them last October so there is not a low of mileage on them.
Kim-
Thanks for your question about your Chevy Cobalt. Rotating the tires could help the roaring noise you are hearing. We recommend rotating your tires every oil change so even if they were new last October the tread wear could be causing the noise you are hearing. If rotating the tires changes the noise then that was your issue. You may also consider inspecting your brakes as they can sometimes cause noises like you are describing if they are badly worn.
Thank You!
-BDP
I have a 2002 Ford Explorer and when I’m driving straight it has a loud humming noise. I have had my tires rotated and balanced, noise still there. It starts at about 40 mph and gets louder as I accelerate. When I turn right it gets louder and left is softer. I have jacked the vehicle up on the front end ( where I’m hearing the noise) and have tried to see if any play on either side, but has no play. When jacked up my driver side tire spins freely and rotates 1 turn and when I do the same for the right it has a lot of resistance and stops almost instantly when I let go. Could this be a bearing? Also, let me add the tires are due for some new ones, but seem to be worn even.
Brian-
Great job on all the checks you are doing! Since you’re due for new tires it may be worth getting a new set and seeing if the sound goes away. If the hum is still there even with fresh rubber then you most likely have a bad wheel bearing. Based on all the checks you’ve done we would say you do have a bad right front wheel bearing.
Thank You!
-BDP
I have a 2005 BMW X5 with 160,000 miles on it. when i get above 20 mph I hear a sound that can be best described as “whoawhoawhoawhoa” coming from the front left wheel. is this a bad wheel bearing? She has new tires and they are road treds.
Andrew-
Thanks for your question about your 2005 X5. Based on your description of the sound and the fact that you have new tires it seems likely that you have a wheel bearing problem on that side. If your BMW came equipped with X-drive then it is also possible that it is a driveline issue, like a CV joint rather than a wheel bearing but that is less likely.
Depending where you got the new tires there is a chance that the weights they used to balance the wheels were not properly applied and have fallen off. If they offer life time balancing it may be worth having the balance on that tire checked just to make sure.
-BDP
I kept hearing a humming noise & could feel my front tires rotating as I drove so I replaced the front passenger wheel bearing on my 04 GMC Envoy. The noise & rotation feeling is still there. Should I replace the front drivers side or could it be something else?
Josh,
Thanks for your question about your GMC Envoy. It is possible that the passenger side wheel bearing needs to be replaced as well, but in your case it may also be that your tires are poorly worn and the irregular tread is causing the humming and slight vibrations. To see if this is the problem you can have your tires rotated and possibly even have them looked at by a wheel and tire shop. If rotating your tires changes the noise or vibration then you’ve found your problem. If not, then it does sound like the driver’s wheel bearing is bad as well.
My car is a 01 eclipse Mitsubishi well when I put it in reverse from a dead stop my rear passenger wheel drags or locks up but only for a moment it never does in drive and there are no sounds what do you think could be wrong??? It had rear drum brakes
Kat-
It is tough to say for certain but, it could be that your rear wheel cylinder is leaking brake fluid onto your brake pads, causing them to lock up. Replacing the rear drum brakes should be able to take care of the issue.
Thank you!
-BDP
I started hearing a noise from the rear passenger side of my Toyota HIghlander about a week ago. At first it was only audible from the passenger side of the car, but now it’s more pronounced from any position in the vehicle. Its sounds like there’s a moped in my blind spot and I’ve caught myself looking before realizing it’s that phantom noise. I do not notice any difference in noise whether I’m going 10MPH or highway speeds. There is no shaking or jerking as described by others writing you. Ideas?
Alicia,
Thanks for your question about your Highlander. Usually, noises like you’re describing are an indication of a bad wheel bearing. If the noise changes pitch with how fast you’re going and has been getting slowly worse, this seems like the most likely culprit. The best way to test for this would be to secure you Highlander and raise both rear tires off the ground at the same time. Remove the tires and try spinning the wheel hub by hand. If one drags significantly more than the other then that wheel bearing is bad. You can do the same with the front tires and your car in neutral to test your front wheel bearings.
Hi! I have a 98′ Mustang GT 5 speed and I was driving down the interstate and the car bogged down and went to about 65 in 2 seconds. Pulled over and made sure the brakes were not sticking and everything seemed fine. Made it about 2 miles and it started making a grinding sound under the center console or maybe under the back seat. It’s hard to tell but it goes into gear and everything seems to work great but even at super slow speeds (3-6) mph it makes a noise that synchronizes with the wheels turning.
Thanks for your time
Zach,
Thanks for your question about your Mustang. Based on the noise you’re describing and its location it sounds like maybe you’ve got a bad bearing in your rear end, or maybe a bad carrier bearing. Usually if a bearing in your rear end is going to fail it will give you some indication first like a hum or slight vibration first. You can try to figure out what the problem is by securing and raising your car enough so you can get under it safely. Next unbolt the driveshaft from the differential. With your transmission in neutral, try turning the drive shaft and see if you can feel the resistance or hear the noise in the carrier bearing or transmission. If both back wheels are off the ground, you can then try spinning the input yoke on the differential to see if you can feel resistance there. If you feel the resistance in the drive shaft, the problem is most likely a bad carrier bearing. If it’s in your differential, you’re probably looking at a rebuild there.
Hi,
I recently bought a certified pre-owned 2014 Ford Fusion, and when I go over 40 mph there is a humming sound like what you have described coming from the bearings I think. The car only had 30k miles on it. I know that bearings can be relied on for hundred thousands of miles. When I got it the dealership told me the sound is coming from the breaks, it’s because the car has been sitting there for a while. They told me that the noise should disappear after I drive it for a while, I’m really not sure if I can believe that! I have driven it for 200 miles so far and there is still that noise and some sort of shaking when I apply the breaks over 40 mph.
Fahad-
Thank you for your question on your Ford Fusion. It does seem a little early in the vehicle’s life to have a faulty wheel bearing. If the problem persists, we recommend taking the vehicle to a certified ASE mechanic and having them inspect the wheel bearings and take it for a test drive to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have just had my subframe replaced on my 2000 Chevy Cavalier two weeks ago and I’m still feeling a little funky steering from time to time, generally on rounding left turns on a road and not all the time. I know I need a right front tire replaced, but until I can, I put air in it as I thought that might be part of the problem. and I also need an alignment, which I plan to do at Mavis where I got my other tire in two week. ,It happens generally if I go over 40. The steering doesn’t go all over the place like it did before I had the Subframe replaced. I’m assuming rocker arms were put in as well. Could an under inflated tire cause this.I do need a front left tire, but put air in it today as well as adding power steering fluid. It looked low. Mind you I have a lot of issues with the car, exhaust, which I had done two years ago, including a muffler, which is now noisy. The problem is that a part of the exhaust is rusted and it happens to be where my Cat is located. I’ve waiting until I have the money to get that fixed, but want to get to the first problem is what is concerning me right now. I can’t get anything else done for two weeks at least. The subframe cost me a total of $900 and it took the mechanic seven hours to do it. He actually couldn’t get a subframe, but I found one from a Pontiac Firebird that is interchangeable with a Chevy Cavalier. on Ebay.
Kathy,
Thanks for your question about your Cavalier. The problems you’re having do sound like you still have a loose suspension component somewhere. An underinflated tire could indeed be causing your car to wander but it also could be a loose joint. Since you just replaced the whole subframe any number of bolts could be loose or at least not properly torqued down. It might be best to take your car back to the shop that replaced the subframe and have them look over it again to see if they can see anything out of place.
I have a 2005 gmc sierra that when you spin both front tires they dont move but also when I drive down the highway my whole front end shakes until I come to a complete stop again I was told it was a tire balance problem so I did that it didnt help then was told I had a broken belt so I relpaced two front tires that didnt help took it to a front end shop and he couldnt find anything so im at a loss….
Heather,
Thanks for your question about your 2005 GMC Sierra. We’re not quite sure what you mean by your tires not moving when you spin them, but if you mean they stick or are hard to spin the vibrations you’re getting might be due to your front brake calipers being frozen. If this is the case you’re probably in need of new front brake rotors as well as brake pads. Make sure when you have the new pads installed the mechanic properly lubricates the pads and the caliper slides to make sure it doesn’t happen again.
If what you meant is that your front bearings or fine and your front tires spin easily then the next most likely culprit is that your front shocks are worn out and are not properly damping road bumps and spring oscillations. In this case, new shocks should help smooth things out.
I have a 2004 Chevy Impala. For the past 2 weeks, my car makes a metallic scraping sound whenever I either go in reverse or take a left turn. The sound gets louder the sharper the turn. What could this be? Wheel bearing? CV axle? Suspension parts? Thanks for any suggestions.
Jose,
Thanks for your question about your Impala. Usually, Metallic scraping sounds come from worn braking components. For starters, try checking out our blog about brake noise here: https://gobdp.com/blog/squeaking-brakes/. Let us know if you have any questions after that!
I just replaced the pads, rotors, and both sets of tapered bearings on the two fronts of my RWD ’00 Ford Ranger V6, and I’m experiencing a problem. I’ve done brakes before on cars many times, but never had to repack bearings. I thought all went pretty well during the job – bearings greased up like they should (used a repack tool), castle nut went on good on both sides. I broke the passenger side cotter pin, but bought another. The test drive went great – brakes seemed to bed in fine, slight smell of cosmoline after the fourth brake application or so, and while the truck was still off the ground (before the drive) the wheels had VERY slight play vertically (the passenger side had almost none). Horizontally seemed fine as well, though with both fronts off the ground I was obviously getting some movement from the steering. I’ve read that with tapered roller bearings, VERY slight play is the norm.
Trouble started at the end of the test drive. I made my first left turn of the entire drive, going about 15mph or so, and there was a pronounced shaking felt in the wheel, the feet, the butt – the cabin vibrated, essentially. My wife was along for the ride, and we both looked at each other, so immediately I knew something bad was afoot. I took it around the block, and the pattern was clear: right hand turns were fine, left hand turns produced shaking and vibrating, and there was also some shaking upon takeoff, but less than while turning and it didn’t persist. Couldn’t really localize it, and the light sprinkle we’d been driving in was turning into real rain so I ended the test run. What should I check first if I’m to begin diagnosing what I might have messed up?
Andrew,
Thanks for your question about your Ford Ranger. The biggest thing we can think of is you didn’t mention adding preload to your bearings. Most tapered roller bearings require torquing the castle nut to a specific preload first to make sure the bearing is properly seated. So the procedure goes: torque bearing to pre-load, back castle nut off carefully, retighten castle nut hand tight, slowly turn hub and tighten castle nut until you just feel the bearing begin to drag. Turn castle nut slightly if needed to align cotter pin holes and you’re done. Our guess is you didn’t have enough pre-load on the bearing to seat it so once you started driving it was able to loosen up.
I have a 2010 Chevy Traverse with 106,000 miles on it. Often, my vehicle has a loud humming sound in the cabin when driving, almost like it is equipped with tires you’d typically see on a lifted 4 x 4. Changed my original Fortera tires at about 60k when the noise really became persistent, thinking the noise would subside, but it’s been with the vehicle at varying intensities since then. When going over bridge pavement at high speeds, I can hear a change in the sound of my tires going from asphalt to concrete, but the humming sound stays about the same. I was ready to try a new set of tires, maybe a switch to a premium Michelin model in an attempt to dampen the humming noise, which is incredibly loud and annoying at times, but after reading your forum I’m wondering if worn wheel bearings are the issue. No trouble with a wobbly steering wheel or grinding noise during turns…just the mind-numbing humming.
Tom,
Thanks for your question about your Chevy Traverse. The noise you’re describing does sound a lot like a bad wheel bearing. You can try checking for one by touching each of your wheels near the center of the rim right after a long drive. If one wheel is significantly warmer than the others it can be an indication of a bad wheel bearing. Also, you can try raising your wheels off the ground one at a time and spinning them checking for resistance. If one wheel turns much harder than the other side or has a lumpy feeling as it spins that wheel probably has a bad wheel bearing.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
I have a 2007 Chevy uplander and at times, when I stop, it is like the brakes don’t want to let go and it is hard to get the van to move. I have found that releasing the gas and reapplying eventually gets the van moving but only with a loud popping sound that seems to be coming from the passenger side. It only does this while it is stopped, I think. I am deaf in one ear and partially deaf in the other so noises aren’t something that I can really rely on. However, the popping noise is so loud, even I can hear it. I have had the hub assembly, control arms, and brake caliper replaced on the front passenger side. When the caliper was replaced, I was told that there was more heat being emitted from the wheels than should be. I was wondering if you had any thoughts about what it could be.
Marie,
Thanks for your question about your Chevy Uplander. If you’ve already replaced the caliper and hub on that side the last thing it could be is the CV axle on that side. It is possible that during braking your CV axle is hanging up and causing the sticking you’re feeling when you try to accelerate again. Try reading our article about CV joint issues and see if you have any similar symptoms. You can read the article here: https://gobdp.com/blog/steering-wheel-noise/
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hi. I noticed a few weeks ago that there’s an annoying humming sound coming from my car. I was told by my friend’s dad who’s a mechanic that it’s the wheel bearing, but then told by an auto body that it’s my struts. I don’t know if the auto body is just telling me this to get $1200 out of me or if that’s actually the issue. They said my struts are cupping, which is resulting in my tires making the humming noise. I have a 2012 Jeep Liberty with about 37,000 miles on it, which doesn’t make sense why it would be the struts. I am leaving to drive to South Carolina next week and need the problem to be fixed before I drive down. The humming is constant and gets louder as I’m driving faster. I hear the noise more when i turn the wheel to the left, but the auto body thought otherwise. At this point, I just need to get my car fixed, but also need to the exact issue. Please help!
Meghan,
Thanks for your question about your Jeep Liberty. The noise you’re describing sounds just like a wheel bearing based on your description. Usually when struts go bad they’ll cause the car to bounce over bumps or handle poorly but it seems unlikely that they could cause the noise you’re describing without being damaged in an accident or something else pretty catastrophic. We would recommend replacing the wheel bearing on the side the noise is coming from first as that should fix your problems.
Thanks again!
-BD Auto Pro
hey nice read. i have a 91 nissan 240sx. I just recently replaced both front wheel bearing. These are a press into hub then bolt onto spindle type. the noise and rumble is gone but i am getting a shake in the steering wheel from 45 to 55 mph. I put the car in the air and i have some play in RF wheel even after I re tightened spindle nut. Im lost idk if the spindle is damaged from the old wheel bearing or I have a faulty new wheel bearing.
Josh,
Great job changing your wheel bearings. If you have spindle damage you should be able to see the wear or scoring on the spindle while you have the hub and bearing off. If everything looks clean, rust free and not marked or scored everything should be fine. It is possible you got a defective bearing, but you may have also damaged it during installation or your initial drive if you didn’t use the correct bearing drivers, fully add grease, or proprely set the preload. We would recommend pulling the new bearing out, adding grease again then making sure you properly set the preload with the correct torque on the castle nut. after you get it setup again, check for play and smooth rotation of the hub. If you cannot remove all the play by tightening the nut, then we would recommend you try a new bearing.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
I have an 03 VW golf.
I have a vibration while foot is on the gas pedal.
Only at the 1200 or so rpm. When driving straight and the gas pedal is depressed. Nothing on turning.
Had my front bushings replaced, mounts all replaced, brakes done, and my flex joint was welded and fixed. Tires rotated, balanced, aligned.
When my car was on the hoist, I noticed when my rear passenger right tire was spun, there was a sound, unlike the other tires that sounded quieter.
from this site, it sounds like it could possibly be a wheel bearing.
Sones,
Thanks for your question about your VW Golf. Based on your description of the problem it is possible that you have a bad rear wheel bearing. The other possibility is that your brakes are dragging on that side causing the noise you’re hearing. Try reading our article about brake noise to help you figure out which it could be. You can read that article here: https://gobdp.com/blog/squeaking-brakes/
Thanks again!
-BD Auto Pro
Hi there!
I have a 2012 Ford Focus that has 60,xxx miles on it. A while back, I noticed a loud humming and slight vibration in the steering wheel when I would turn my steering wheel to the right. A few months ago, It got louder and worse to the point of doing it all the time. I had the left front wheel bearing replaced. It didn’t seem to help the problem. The problem has gotten progressively worse. My car is so loud!!
Next week, I am having the right front wheel bearing replaced. Through the research that I have done, I strongly feel like the wheel bearing is the problem (in combination with the maintenance bulletin.) My question to you is, if this doesn’t slove the problem (I’m not optimistic that it will,) could it be a back wheel bearing? What ways are most efficient for a mechanic to test to see if the wheel bearings are worn? Hopefully having the right wheel bearing replaced will help, but if not, where do you think I should turn to next?
Cyerra,
Thanks for your question about your Ford Focus. The noise you’re describing does sound like a front right wheel bearing issue. Hopefully having that replaced did solve the problem. It is possible it is also the right rear wheel bearing. The best way to check for bad wheel bearings is to lift your car off the ground, remove the wheels and spin the hubs by hand. If one spins much harder than the others, or feels lumpy then that wheel bearing is bad.
If the problem isn’t a wheel bearing the next most likely cause would be a bad CV joint. For more information about that, check out our article about bad CV joints here: https://gobdp.com/blog/steering-wheel-noise/.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
I have just replaced my front left wheel bearing on my 07 explorer and now it continues to have that humming noise. Also while I was in the drive thru when I went to pull out it seemed like the grinding noise got louder and more intense like it wasn’t wanting to go.
Brandon,
Thanks for your question about your Explorer. Depending on what the symptoms were, you may also have another wheel bearing going bad. The other component that can make similar noises is a bad CV joint if you have a 4 wheel drive truck. For more information about bad CV joints, check out our article about that here: https://gobdp.com/blog/steering-wheel-noise/.
The fact that it seemed like the truck didn’t want to move forward is a possible indication that you have severe damage in either your rear end or transfer case so you may consider have your vehicle looked at by a mechanic.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
My car is making a humming kind of noise. Its a 03 pontiac grand am. It only happens when the car is in motion even when on a plain road. The intensity stays constant throughout regardless of the speed. But it will slightly increase when I start to press the break. It is absent when I am idling. I do not feel any vibrations on the steering wheel. I just recently rotated and balanced the tires. I believe the noise started when I was going over some uneven paved road. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Jason,
Thanks for your question about your Pontiac Grand Am. The noise you’re describing does sound like you’ve got a bad front wheel bearing. Even though the noise doesn’t seem to get louder with speed, the fact that it gets louder when you brake and started on a rough road makes a bad wheel bearing seem likely.
Thanks for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
HI there,
I have a 2003 Saturn Ion. Recently I was driving and noticed a loud hum in my right front tire especially when turning my wheels to the left.
I’ve had 3 options presented to me as to what it might be…and honestly none of them set my heart at ease, since I have a ton of highway driving to do over the next 3 weeks. I am taking my car in to the mechanic Thursday, but was hoping for some feedback, since I am not mechanically inclined at all. He thinks it could be either a bearing or alignment issue. I was told today it might be the CV joint…which I’m inclined to think it might be as I noticed some grease mysteriously appear on my front right rim. Any suggestions would be amazing and would help immensely.
Thanks in advance!
Audra,
Thanks for your question about your Saturn Ion. All the things your mechanic listed could be making the sound you’re hearing. The most likely is a bad wheel bearing based on your description which I hope our article helped explain. A bad CV joint would possibly have left grease all over your car, but you can test them by turning in a tight circle and listening for crunching or clicking. If your alignment was off you would notice a pull to one side of the road, the steering wheel being turned while going straight and abnormal tire wear. If you don’t have any of the last few symptoms then a bad wheel bearing is most likely your problem.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hi, I found this article while trying to figure out a problem with my Malibu. A few days ago I started to hear squealing sometimes when I turn the wheel to the left. I thought the power steering might be low, so I topped it off. However, the sound did not go away. Tonight, I started to hear a low grinding noise when I turned the wheel all the way to the left for a u-turn. A friend thought it might be the wheel bearing. Do you have any ideas of what it might be?
Kathryn,
Thanks for your question about your Malibu. The squeal while turning does sound like it could be an indication that your power steering system is working too hard to turn your wheels. This could be an indication of a clog in your system or a worn component like your rack and pinion or tie rod end. A worn tie rod end may also cause the grinding you’re hearing if it is more of a groan or creek than a grind.
If it actually is a grinding noise then it is actually most likely a brake problem. Try reading our article about brake noise here: https://gobdp.com/blog/squeaking-brakes/.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
I have a 1993 lifted Chevy k1500. I recently replaced both front cv axles because they were shot. Just a few days ago I noticed a clicking noise but only when I turn left. And it doesn’t do it all the time. Could it be the bearing going bad or?
Krystal-
Thank you for asking about your Chevy K1500. Yes, the fact that you just had the cv axles replaced we lead us to believe the left side wheel bearing is starting to go bad. We would recommend having the bearing inspected and replaced if necessary.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have a 1990 f150 I recently discovered that there is grease coming out of wheel bearing would that mean that I need to change it
Brandon,
Thanks for your question about your F150. If you have grease coming from your wheel bearing then it is likely that they should be replaced. During removal, if the surfaces are still shiny and not pitted or scored you may be able to repack them and continue to use them.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Wow! Such a great article- super helpful and thorough! Thank you!
Hello, I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor AWD with 150k on it. I think I have a bad passenger front wheel bearing. Around 35-40mph while accelerating I can hear a “whirring” sound, kind of like an airplane lifting off, getting higher pitched (to a point) as I gain speed. The sound gets much louder if I’m at speed and going around a left-bend. The sound is definitely worse under acceleration, but is still noticeable while cruising at 35mph+. I am concerned because there is a TSB on this particular vehicle that has something to do with the propellor shaft which claims some very similar symptoms, but I’m hoping its the wheel bearing because my car is not under warranty. What do you think? Will I be able to turn just the front wheels to diagnose since its AWD? Also, if it is a wheel bearing, is there any special tools other than a large socket I need to remove and replace the wheel hub assembly? Thanks for your help!
Kyle,
Thanks for your question about your Endeavor. You should be able to check for a bad wheel bearing even if your car is all wheel drive. You may have to put it on jack stands so all 4 wheels are off the ground, or remove the CV axle to properly check it. If it is the wheel bearing you shouldn’t need any special tools besides the correct side sockets to remove the bearing.
Since there is a TSB for the propeller shaft that could be the cause, and the fact that it sounds worse under acceleration does make us think that could be the problem, but the fact that it changes while corning points much more towards a wheel bearing. Your front wheel bearings should actually be sealed unit bearings so replacing them should be relatively easy and they may be inexpensive so it may be worth replacing it just to be sure.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hello and thank you for the informative article.
I have a 2009 Malibu and I recently noticed a noise when I drove that increased as I sped up. The car is not pulling. I’ve recently had to change 3 of the four tires and the noise appears to be coming from the wheel with the last old tire. Is the bearing going bad or could it be the tire? I have not had any issues with breaking or turning.
I look forward to hearing any advice.
Thank you,
Nate
Nathan,
Thanks for your question about your Malibu. It could definitely be the last old tire causing the noise you’re hearing. It’s possible that you have a bad wheel bearing, but that seems like quite the coincidence. Try rotating a good tire to that location and seeing if the noise follows the old tire or remains unchanged. If the noise doesn’t change you have a bad wheel bearing, but if it follows the tire, that’s your problem.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hi. Great article! We’ve replaced a wheel bearing once but I believe it’s happening again. Would the car shake as you slow down?
Marla-
Yes, it is definitely possible that the vehicle would shake a little bit when slowing down if a wheel bearing is starting to go bad. We would recommend having the wheel bearings inspected and replaced if necessary.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have a ford Taurus and the i turn the back tire makes a noise. can you tell me if the a wheel bearning?
Patrick,
That doesn’t sound like a wheel bearing issue unless it is accompanied by a hum or roar at higher speeds going straight. If it is a bad wheel bearing the sound should slowly get worse with time. The noise you’re experiencing may be due to your drum brakes so you may consider getting an inspection and cleaning of your rear brakes.
Thanks for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Thank you for the advice. Once again, great site. Keep up the good work.
I have a 2002 Ford Ranger. When i’m driving without turning my steering wheel there are no problems with my brakes. If I am turning my wheel to the left or right when I apply the brakes my ABS kicks in and I have no brakes. The mechanic says he is stumped can’t figure out what is wrong. He said it is not my wheel bearings. What is wrong?
C A,
Thanks for your question about your Ranger. It sounds like when you’re turning the wheel speed sensor is unable to pick up the speed of the wheel and triggers your ABS. The wheel speed sensor is a small probe that points towards teeth on your hub. The sensor counts the teeth as they go by to measure speed so if it can’t count those teeth it will read 0 MPH while the other wheels are spinning to trigger the ABS. To figure out which front wheel you can try unplugging the wheel speed sensors one at a time and see which makes the problem stop.
The sensor may not be reading correctly because it’s bad, or it could be because it’s not mounted properly so it’s not close enough or pointed at the teeth on your hub. Try cleaning around the sensor to make sure its mounted properly or changing the sensor to see if its just gone bad.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hello my name is gabby I have a 2003 yukon and I’m having some problems with my yukon when I press on the gas I hear this grinding Noises I really don’t know how to explain the noise but when I take my foot off the gas it don’t make that noise I need help…
Gabby,
Thanks for your question about your 2003 Yukon. Based on your description it’s difficult to tell what your problem might be. If the grinding noise is rhythmic with your tires turning and sounds like it’s coming from the area under your center console, it’s possible that you’ve got some transmission damage and need to have that looked at. Also, sometimes something metal rattling will sound like a grinding noise and when you press the gas, your engine RPMs will rise causing things to rattle more so it’s possible that you just have a loose thin metal component somewhere in your car. If that is the case, our guess would be you’ve got a loose heat shield or loose exhaust component that is rattling when you push the gas. If that is the case, it should be something relatively easy to find if you can get under your car and check for loose components while it’s cool.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
My front right wheel bearing on my 2015 Chevy Malibu started making noise this week. We want to get it fixed in another week and we have to drive at least 400 miles on Sunday. Is this okay in your experience and how much do you think it will cost?
Jennifer-
Thank you for asking about your Chevy Malibu. It would not be recommended to take the vehicle on a long trip with a bad wheel bearing. Depending on the severity of the symptoms you are experiencing, you may not want to drive the vehicle at all if the wheel bearing is missing. The wheel bearing is essential to keeping the wheel on the vehicle, so you would not want to risk the wheel falling off during your drive. Typically, it can cost anywhere from $400-$650 to have a front wheel bearing replaced.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
I am hearing a roaring noice from the right rear of my Grand Canyon, which only happens when I make a left turn and sometimes when I am sitting still in a drive thu. In the past few days I notice that the steering wheel is vibrating and the van wants to go to the right. A friend told me that it could be the wheel baring has gone bad. Is this the case
Michael,
Thanks for your question about your Grand Caravan. If you only hear the noise when you’re driving or turning then the sound you’re describing could definitely be a wheel bearing issues most likely the passenger side rear. If you still hear the noise when you are stopped like you talked about in a drive through then it wouldn’t be a wheel bearing. Our guess then would be that you’ve got an exhaust leak right before your muffler.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hello, I have a 2009 Acura MDX and I been noticing a Humming noise coming from the front end. When going around a left curve on the highway, it gets louder. It goes away going around a right curve. It’s not any grinding, more of a whining or humming. Could it be a right front wheel bearing or the Torque Converter?
Greg,
Thanks for your question about your 2009 Accura MDX. Since you mentioned the sound goes away when turning it definitely sounds like you’ve got a bad wheel bearing. When you turn and the weight is lifted off that wheel it will quiet down, then make noise again when you straighten out. The humming comes from tiny imperfections on the bearing roller’s surface so it’s possible you won’t see any play or hear any grinding for quite some time.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hello BlueDevil,
I drive a 2015 Mazda 3 I touring. This past week, I have noticed a humming noise coming from the underside of my vehicle when I reach speeds of approximately 40 kmh. I was worried that I may have a bad wheel bearing but my vehicle is showing no symptoms related to a bad wheel bearing (Shacking, veering to one side while driving). I have yet to get my vehicle up on a lift to test if the wheel bearings are bad. However I’m leaning towards the possibility that I may have bad tires as they have not been changed since 2015. My vehicle has approximately 65000 km on it. I was curious if anybody could perhaps help me and maybe point out what might be wrong with my vehicle.
Thank you,
Matthew Logan
Matthew-
Thank you for asking about your Mazda3 I Touring. Based on your description, the best thing to do would be to have the tires balanced and rotated. If that does not correct the humming noise issue, it would indicate that a bad wheel bearing may be the cause.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
Hello,
I have a 2010 Titan with 120,000 miles. I just returned from a 800 mile trip and noticed a hum (winding) sound coming from the front of the truck. It isn’t loud but noticeable. It sounds like when you drive over a road that has the lines cut in it (for rain drainage/traction). The faster you go the louder the sound. Slow to a stop and the noise ends without a trace.
Based on all your previous posts/advice, I don’t think it is tire related (noise happens on several surfaces). I don’t think it is engine related (I put the truck in neutral while going about 35, noise stayed the same even while revving the engine). And, I don’t think it is brake related (replaced those about a year ago and no problems). So, I’m guessing it is the wheel bearings. I won’t be able to get down there and deterimine which side is bad before I go to the garage. Is it possible for both to go bad at same time? I understand the ball joint may need to be replaced as well, anything else that could be connected to the problem? (Just trying to make sure I’m not upsold when I go in.)
Thanks for the help and I really enjoy the “everyday Joe” way your advice and site overall is delivered. Makes wannabe mechanics like myself feel a bit more confident figuring this stuff out.
Thanks again,
Scott
Scott,
Thanks for your question about your 2010 Nissan Titan. If your tires are wearing evenly and you don’t have any cupping in your outside treads, then it does seem most likely that you’ve got a bad wheel bearing. It is certainly possible for them both to go bad at the same time, but pretty unlikely. If your truck has press-in bearings that it is possible that the ball joints will have to be destroyed to install the new bearings so it’s good to be prepared for that. Until the bearing starts to wobble because it’s so worn out it can be difficult to diagnose which has gone bad so our suggestion is to make sure you ask your mechanic how he determined which bearing was the noisy one.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
It was the wheel bearing in the front passenger. For those wondering about costs, it was $400 for the part and $89 for labor. Took them about 90 minutes from the time I arrived to me leaving with a fixed truck (that included them taking it for a drive to confirm the problem and again to make sure it was running fine after the repair). I live in the 65109 zip code.
Thanks again for the advice.
I have a 2003 ford explorer and after a week of driving 150 miles daily the rear end began making a loud grinding sound yesterday and It still had to be driven home. But I went to go to the corner store this morning and noticed a dragging feeling from the back as I tried to reverse from my driveway. I got out and within 15 feet driving forward it sounded and felt as though I was dragging dead weight so to speak so I reversed to go back into my driveway and it sounded like rattling clunking as i did. It’s been suggested that the R wheel bearing was going out when the issue arose but the rapid deterioration and unfamiliar noises leave me to ask if their failure without repair has caused additional suspension damage and what are the likely components operating with a damaged wheel barring could destroy.
Samantha-
Thank you for asking about your Ford Explorer. A worn wheel bearing can be dangerous, especially if it causes one wheel to stop while you are driving. If you suspect your wheel bearing is going bad, it is best to have the bearing replaced before the tires go bad. If a wheel bearing is missing, it is not recommended you drive the vehicle at all as the wheel can fall off entirely while the vehicle is in motion.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
I have a 2010 Toyota Highlander base model and have a rubbing sound coming from the driver side rear wheel. The sound speeds up the faster I go. When turning left the sound seems to stop but when turning right it seems to be louder. Was told by the dealership that the wheel bearing needed to be replaced but its my understanding that the bearing causes more of a high pitched sound rather than an intermittent rubbing sound. The sound is very noticeable inside the cabin but not so noticeable from the outside… thoughts
Jeff-
Thank you for asking about your Toyota Highlander. Based on your description, we would agree with the dealership and say that it sounds like the wheel bearing needs to be replaced. It may just be starting to deteriorate at this point, which is why you are not hearing the full blown high pitched sound yet.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have a 1967 Mercury Cougar that is pretty much all original. I re-did the whole suspension (UCA,LCA,tie rods, strut rods, leaf springs, coil springs, struts). About 2 weeks ago i hear this ‘chirping” sound coming from what sounds like the front passenger side tire. Sounded like crickets. Then every once in a while I would hear clunking noises which clearly sounds like something moving around underneath the car that should be moving. When I get to work I see that the center cap from my rims came off. I looked in the rim and I see nothing but metal flakes and lots of grease. Also, the wheel/car feels floaty when I’m driving it. It’s like the car wants to go where it wants and I’m constantly fighting to keep the car within the lines. I did put aftermarket wheels on the car. I went from the stock 14″rim to an 18’rim with spacers. Also, sometimes when I press the brake pedal, it feels spongy. Then I’ll keep pressing it and it will get stiff again. I chalked it up to the wheel bearings being bad since the car is 51 years old and I’m pretty sure the bearings have never been changed, then you add the fact I got aftermarket wheels on the car and drive it daily. Do these symptoms go along with bad wheel bearings? Also, will the spacers I have on there cause the new bearings to wear out faster than normal? They are in fact hub centric spacers. I just want to make sure I’m on the right track.
Raafi,
Thanks for your question about your 1967 Mercury Cougar. It’s definitely possible that you’ve got a bad wheel bearing and it’s causing the noises and driving problems you’re having. We would also recommend going back through the suspension components you installed and checking the torque on the components to make sure they were installed correctly. Control arm bushings should always be torqued with the weight of the vehicle resting on the suspension to make sure they don’t fail prematurely and that they are quiet.
The wheel bearings in your car should be a spindle and hub type so we would recommend replacing the bearings and races since you mentioned seeing metal shavings in the grease. Make sure to follow the factory service instructions for setting preload on the new bearings and install the dust cap over the spindle nut. Installing wheel spacers does increase stress on wheel bearings as it increases the distance from the center of the bearing to the contact patch of the tire which creates more load on the bearing. Unless the wheels are extremely heavy or you drive on very damaged roads, the bearings should still last a long time even with the spacers.
Lastly, you mentioned your brakes feel spongy intermittently. Usually, that is a sign that your brake master cylinder is going bad and wouldn’t be unusual for a car this age. Besides the master cylinder, poorly adjusted drum brakes could also cause the issue you’re having so you might consider inspecting those first just to make sure.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
I have a question. I just had coilovers in my rear that I replaced with stock shocks (recommended by my mechanic) and then I fell into a pothole & with new shocks I figured I’d be okay. But now when I hit holes it sounds like chains rattling together. I took it back to mechanic and he said I have a bad wheel bearing now & I need the rear hub spindle knuckle. Is my mechanic the cause of my issue? It seems every time I leave him I end up with more problems. This time is the worst. Any recommendations? I have a 03 8nfiniti g35 coupe that has a lot of aftermarket parts. Thank you in advance for any recommendations.
Ursula,
Thanks for your question about your Infiniti G35. It does seem like an odd coincidence that something would go wrong on your car right after it was at the mechanic but in this case, having stock shocks would have actually given your car a better chance of not getting broken on a pothole. Coilovers usually have a much more aggressive spring rate making rough roads a lot harder on cars. The new shocks really shouldn’t have had anything to do with a wheel bearing going bad, but they should help keep your new wheel bearing working well for a long time!
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hi, I have a 2014 dodge charger, standard model with a 3.6 liter engine. A few weeks ago I started to hear a howling sound coming from my front passenger side. I need to get new brakes so I had all new rotors and brakes plus the tire rode on the passenger side replace. I asked the mechanic to check to see where the sound was coming from. He looked it over told me that my front end was tight and could not fi d anything wrong.
I picked up my car and could still hear the sound. A few days later I decided to take it to a tire store and have them check it out as well as do a wheel alignment. Again they said the same thing. My front end was tight and they did not know where the sound was coming from. A few more days later I went to a third mechanic for one more opinion. I drive with the mechanic as he could not hear any sound. They lifted it up, checked my front end and told me the same thing.
Any suggestion on what the sound could be. You can only hear the sound from inside the car, it starts to make the sound once I hit 30 km, and it doesn’t change when I turn corners
Thanks
Gary,
Thanks for your question about your 2014 Dodge Charger. based on your description of the noise we would guess you’re either hearing tire noise from poorly worn tread or you’ve got a wheel bearing going bad. The noise from a bad wheel bearing usually comes from microscopic pitting on the surface of the bearings and can get pretty noisy before you can feel any play in the bearing. The best way we’ve found to identify bearings that are noisy but don’t get have play is to lift the car up and listen to the bearing with a mechanic’s stethoscope while someone else spins the wheel then compare it to another wheel on the car to see if it is indeed noisy. You can also try rotating the tire from the front to the back to see if the noise follows it to see if you’ve just got a noisy tire.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Thanks for this article. Currently in Madison Wisconsin for my wife’s training class for work. Car started making a scraping noise on the way here but no mechanic is available to look at my car on our short stay here other than this muffler shop who thinks it could either be my brakes or bearing. Here’s the thing… It only makes a scraping noise when I get the car up to speed and not on a slow roll (5mph). I notice when I take my foot off the accelerator the scrapping noise stays constant but when i step on the accelerator it makes the noise once per revolution. It doesn’t get worse on turns, nor do I have any wobble feeling on the steering wheel. No symptoms of the car jerking left or right at speeds even! I’m stumped here but I am hoping we can make it back to illinois to have the dealership look at my car. I’ll have to take the drive easy and not push it too hard. But in the meantime any idea what you think it could be?
Redrico,
Thanks for your question about your car’s scraping noises. It doesn’t sound like you’ve got a bad wheel bearing as those usualy hum or growl. If your wheel bearing was bad enough to be grinding or scrapping you would probably be able to see your wheel wobbling while you were driving at slow speed or feel play in your steering wheel. Our guess would be that your brakes are completely worn out, especially if the noise changes or gets more constant when you push the brakes. If you drive too long with worn brakes the caliper piston will push out of the caliper causing a brake fluid leak and a loss of brakes at that axle so we would encourage you to get them looked at as soon as possible.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
I’ve read all of your info about bad wheel bearings and I appreciate all of it. I also have a humming sound coming from my car, gets louder as speed increases. Mechanic thought it was the front right bearing as the wheel spinner slower than left. He changed bearing, charged me $300 but the noise is still there. I also have a leaky front axle, could that be making the noise instead of the bearings? How does a mechanic know which bearing needs to be replaced? I’d hate to have to replace all 4 at $1200 total. 🙁
Dan-
It’s possible that a worn front axle could make similar humming noises to that of a bad wheel bearing, which is why it is difficult to diagnose the problem just based on noise alone. You should be able to identify if the noise is coming from the front or rear of the vehicle, and being that the front right wheel bearing was already replaced, it is likely a worn front axle is the issue.
Thank you!
-BDP
thank you so much! Ill get the axle taken care of and hopefully will solve the problem. I also need transmission fluid changed, i hope that’s not another noisy issue. Oy. 🙂
2016 RAV4, great car, but for the last 11,000 mi (total milage 66,000) it sounds like I have knobby tires. Dealer talked me into 4 wheel alignment, balance and rotate tires, then said let them wear. Finally bought new tires and have the exact same issue. No change in sound as I turn, mileage is good, noise is just nuts.
JeffD-
Thank you for asking about your Toyota Rav4. If the noise you are hearing is consistent with a grinding noise and gets louder as you accelerate, it would be a bad wheel bearing that you are dealing with. The noise would be more noticeable when turning the wheel to the side that the bad wheel bearing is on.
Thank you!
-BDP
Hi there! Thank you for providing such valuable info.
My 2008 Pontiac G6 (97,000miles) is making a noticeably loud humming sound that’s directly correlated with speed, not acceleration. It starts around 15mph, and increases the faster I drive. It persists whether I am coasting in neutral or accelerating. No noise at idle.
When I lifted the front end of my car to check the wheels, there was no wiggle movement on either side. When I spun the wheels they made no sound and had no noticeable resistance. However, the passenger side had a very slight rotational lump to it as I spun. This was only noticeable as I grabbed onto the suspension to feel for the slightest vibration while rotating the wheel.
My ABS light is also came on around the same time as the humming. The hum seems unlikely to be cause by the tires. It seems much too loud to be the tires, particularly considering the noise level at lower speeds.
I have been driving on rougher roads the last year. Is there anything else I can do to further test if it’s a front bearing or perhaps another issue I’m not considering?
Any insight is greatly appreciated.
Steven,
Thanks for your question about your Pontiac G6. It sounds like you’re on the right track with the bad wheel bearing. We would recommend getting the code read for your ABS light as they seem related. The ABS light is likely for a bad wheel speed sensor which will be on the same wheel as the bad wheel bearing. The other thing you could do is wait for the bearing to get bad enough to have play in it but that could be dangerous to drive on.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
My 2011 f150 has a rumble in the rear end when i am turning at slow speeds or backing out of parking spots while turning… i took vehicle to a tire place and they said the shocks and struts are shot but they cant guarentee replacing will solve the issue….could it be my wheel bearings???
David-
Thank you for asking about your Ford F-150. Do you hear any sounds during normal driving, or is it just when slowing down or turning the steering wheel at lower speeds? A bad wheel bearing would be indicated throughout your drive, as you would hear some abnormal sounds like grinding or clunking the entire time.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
Hi Blue Devil, I have a question regarding my 2017 Hyundai Elantra GT. The right front wheel on my vehicle has abnormal outer tire wear and a dud.dud.dud sound at about 35 MPH. It disappears after 35 and completely disappears at 45. I rotated the tires as needed but still makes this noise. I’ve already tested it turning 360 and no clicking from the CV shafts. The car is at about 79,000 miles. Could it be the wheel bearings?
Carl-
Thank you for asking about your Hyundai Elantra. Thankfully, it doesn’t seem like you have any of the signs of a bad wheel bearing. Typically if the wheel bearing is going bad, you would hear a humming sound and the sound would intensify when making turns, depending on what side the wheel bearing going bad was. Abnormal tire wear can be something as simple as the tires being under/over inflated. Check your tire pressures and make sure they are meeting the specs for your vehicle.
Hope this helps!
-BDP
Hi, I recently test drove a 2003 Subaru Legacy wagon with high miles. The seller informed me of a grinding noise that she had looked at after having clutch work done and they said it “may” be the wheel bearings. The noise was similar to bare brake pads on rotors (like metal plates grinding against each other) and only occurred after accelerating. Couldn’t hear it at low speed or cornering and the sound was more prominent as speed increased. Was afraid to take it on highways so I only drove on local city streets. Couldn’t do the wobble test or rotate the wheels off the ground. I was maybe also thinking it could be the brake dust shield scraping the rotors.
Jade-
Thank you for asking about your Subaru Legacy. Typically, if a wheel bearing is faulty or going bad, the grinding noise would increase or become more prominent when making turns to that particular side. Accelerating would also cause the noise to increase or become louder. You may want to consider having this issue remedied before making a purchase. We recommend taking the vehicle to a certified ASE mechanic for a proper diagnosis.
Thank you!
-BDP
Change front Left bearing/hub assembly as well as the rotor. Still having rotational sound? Could it be bad tires. No vibration. No clunking. Just rotational sound where driving.
Brenda,
Thanks for your question! Yes, it could be your tires so you can try rotating your tires to see if the sound changes. You can also try checking your CV axles, wheel speed sensors, or brake caliper to see if it’s sticking.
Thanks again for your question!
-BD Auto Pro
Hello,
I have a 2003 Toyota Rav4. I have an extra road noise when I drive 60+ miles on the freeway. The humming noise sounds like there’s a car with a loud exhaust driving beside me. This noise is very faint and wont hear it if the music is on. My tires are new and checked that they are at the proper pressure. I’ve also rolled down my windows to listen if theres an exhaust leak while driving and revved it while parked. The exhaust system sounds fine. There’s no vibration when I’m driving.
This faint exhaust humming sound only starts when driving at highway speeds. Otherwise city driving its not present
Andre-
Thank you for asking about your Toyota Rav4. Based on your description, it does not sound like the wheel bearing is going bad. It’s possible you are experiencing a slight exhaust leak, however, you mentioned it sounds fine. Continue to monitor the noise. If the noise persists, you may want to bring the vehicle in for a proper diagnosis.
Thank you!
-BDP
Hi ,its Paulus,have a problem with my runx ,front wheel bearings both sides,they dont even last three days after replacement,I try to put on new steering knuckle,new hub,new shocks,new cv joints,,but it doesn’t help,I dont know what is putting too much load on the bearings at all,what could be the cause
Twelifa-
Repeatedly replacing the wheel bearings because of failure could be due to overtightening the roller bearing. Excessive tightening will cause increased friction on the bearing, causing it to run hot and start to break down. Be sure to tighten the roller bearing to specs to avoid premature failure.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have my vehicle making sorts of humming or grinding noise when decelerating all the way from 40km/h to the stop, what problem can that be? I also tried to keep the speed around 30km/h for a range of distance, so the speed was kept around 30km/h all the time, the sort of the humming and grinding sounds are appearing the most noticeable during at the speed. I’ve replaced the brake rotors and pads as due to the noise, but the noise just stays the same.
John-
Based on your description, it does seem possible that a wheel bearing is going bad, with the humming/grinding noise you are hearing and the brake rotors and pads replacement you have already completed. Another possibility to consider would be the tires themselves being improperly worn, needing rotation or replacement. Typically, the grinding noise will be more prevalent when turning to a particular side, indicating what side is going bad. Either way, it is never a good idea to drive the vehicle in this condition, as it could be dangerous and turn catastrophic rather quickly.
Thank you!
-BDP
While driving in between 60 and 70 MPH I get a slight vibrating metal sound from the front driver side tire. Doesn’t happen below 60 or above 70. Thought it was thr brake dust cover but could it be the wheel bearing? I don’t have any shaking or anything besides the noise.
Steven-
Based on your description, it doesn’t sound like its a case of the wheel bearing going bad. Typically, you would be experiencing more of a shaking, especially when turning the vehicle to one side or the other. The shaking/vibrating would also be present driving in lower speeds as well as higher speeds. Either way, we recommend taking the vehicle into a mechanic for proper inspection. Driving the vehicle in its current condition could lead to other parts failing.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have a 2012 sonata and when I make a right turn I feel like a rumble come from front left side almost like I have a bug bolt in my tire that I’m running over when I turn right but nothing in tire. Does not happen when I am going straight or left. Only when I turn right. It’s like a rumble / grinding sound. Any help would be much appreciated.
Ruan-
Thank you for asking about your Hyundai Sonata. A grinding sound when turning the vehicle to any particular side usually indicates worn CV axles or wheel bearings that are starting to go. In either situation, it would be best to bring the vehicle to a certified mechanic for repair. Continuing to drive the vehicle under this condition could be very dangerous to you and others on the road.
Thank you!
-BDP
Hi: I have a 2006 Honda Accord 6 cylinder. I very recently started to get a low humming noise ONLY when I pull out from a dead stop. After about 5 seconds it stops humming. Otherwise the car is perfectly fine. No other issues. Any help would be appreciated.
Gary-
Thank you for asking about your Honda Accord. Based on your description, the humming noise you are hearing could be attributed to a number of different things, such as a wheel bearing starting to go bad, worn differentials, worn CV joints or a transmission that’s failing. It may be best to bring the vehicle to a shop for a proper diagnosis. The humming noise itself is an indication that something is wrong and needs to be looked at.
Thank you!
-BDP
Hi I have 2013 hyundai sonata and I encountered sound from a right front wheel when I accelerate but the sound stops when I apply brakes.what might be the cause
Jerry-
Thank you for asking about your Hyundai Sonata. What kind of noise are you hearing? Please contact our technical support line at 888-863-0426 so that we can get a little better understanding of the vehicle’s condition and be able to make any appropriate recommendations.
Thank you!
-BDP
I too have a sound / vibration that comes from the front wheels on my 95 ram3500. I just changed the front pads and adjusted the rear drum screws because in the ice my drive tires continued to spin at stop lights , and then rotated the fronts to the inside rear due to outside feathering that was causing a pull and death wobble that was not there before. The steering has almost completely been replaced and the notorious death wobble went away as did the pulling and veering.. after a few days the vibration started within the slop of the steering wheel and progressively got worse. At first jabbing the brakes would smooth the shudder and allow for a smooth ride.
Within a few days the vibration would start accompanied with the slow rubbing of releasing brakes …the rubbing and vibrations coincide with each other. … today any forward motion would cause the sound and vibration where as light brake pressure would remove the vibration … both feel like they could be a serious problem. Dis assembled brakes again and used lithium based disk brake bearing grease to lube pins and rubber sleeves caliper piston and where pads touch as well as caliper slide surfaces … wheel bearing had zero noticeable play . Truck is 2wd 1 ton dually with 260k .. front steering about 1yr old same with ball joints pads needed premature replacement due to unadjusted rears
All components have 47000 miles on them
Have repacked wheel bearings 2x in 2 yrs
Any insite appreciated
2007 grand Cherokee first thing in the morning when I start my car and accelerate there’s a weird humming noise coming from the rear right wheel but only for a second it only happens when the car sits for awhile and when I accelerate but only for a couple seconds than I never hear it again while driving
Marlin-
Thank you for asking about your Grand Cherokee. Based on your description, you could have the makings of a wheel bearing going bad. Especially, if the noise gets louder when you accelerate. This is an issue you would want to have taken care of right away. We recommend bringing the vehicle to a shop for possible wheel bearing replacement.
Thank you!
-BDP
My wife’s 2012 Honda Civic sounds terrible. There is a loud vibrating sound (like a grinding sound) as soon as you turn the car on. Even going 5 mph, the sound is bad. We removed the brakes, rotor and caliper. I could not turn the front right wheel when the car was on blocks and in neutral. It would barely move when in Drive. Would not reverse on its own. Would that be a bad wheel bearing?
Tony-
Thank you for asking about your wife’s Honda Civic. Yes, that does like the symptoms of a bad wheel bearing, especially if the noise got louder when starting to drive and increasing speed. Replacing the wheel bearing should correct the problem.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have an 06 f150. There is a humming noise that starts around 20 mph and it stops when you let off the gas. Mash the gas and it starts back. I opened the diff and the gear oil was extremely low. No grinding noise. With the diff open and in neutral both tires off ground spin one the other turns in opposite direction and the spider gears turn but the ring doesn’t turn unless I rotate the drive shaft. I was leaning towards the carrier bearing in the diff.
I have a 2106 Mitsubishi Montero/Pajero Sport. My steering wheel developed a lot of play after hitting a big pothole on my Front right side. I replaced all my front suspension parts (control arms, struts, stab links, inner/outer tie rod and new tires) and had my rack and pinion tightened (adjusted). Now my I still feel some looseness on my steering on straight roads especially on uneven pavements and bump steers on very uneven road. But during manuevering/backing, I can feel the tightness in my steering due to the rack and pinion adjustement. I can hear no sound on my front bearings but it always pull on the front right when I take my hand away from the steering wheel even after correcting wheel alignment. I go to the alignment shop once a month and they always adjust the toe on my right wheel. They can feel no play on the wheels and they are saying it is a bad rack and pinion. Help
I have a 98 Ford Taurus and I just got done going through a horrible rainstorm and now whenever I go to break it sounds like a horrible grinding sound and then whenever I accelerate on the freeway it’s like harder to push on the gas? it’s hard to explain what i’m talking about.. it feels like it’s grinding and it giving off high vibrations. I’m not sure if this is just because of the rain storm I just went through but also my car shakes really bad whenever I get up to about 80 mph before the rain storm, so I’m just confused and concerned on what’s going on with my car because it feels like crap whenever I’m driving it now especially when I’m going to break .
Mariah-
Thank you for asking about your Ford Taurus. The grinding sound you are hearing when applying the brake would indicate excessively worn brake pads, so replacing those immediately would be recommended. The car shaking really bad would be a separate issue. This could be caused by a number of different elements such as dirty/clogged fuel injectors, the engine not getting enough oxygen or even unbalanced tires. Either way, driving the vehicle under these conditions could be dangerous, so it would be worth looking into a remedy to avoid future problems.
Thank you!
-BDP
I have a 2005 Cadillac STS AWD. I have recently developed a loud “humming” noise while driving. The noise goes away when turning left. I instantly thought passenger, front wheel bearing. I noticed a minimal amount of play in the tire once lifted, so I changed the hub assembly out. The problem persisted, so I changed the driver’s side hub assembly also. The noise remains. It doesn’t make sense to me that it could be a rear bearing as the noise goes away only when turning left, but I am at a loss for what to check next. Ideas?
Thank you!
I have a 2016 challenger when i first start sriving the car its fine no noise but after driving on the interstate and exiting i hear a sound that sounds like i have a flat but dont …when you accelerate and then stop fast it causes vibration …but its like whatever it is has to warm up first because it does not do it right away .